A Jan Juc Diary by Lisa Geue
What was I thinking moving to a small town where I didn’t know a single soul?
Since I got here my laptop crashed, my phone broke and my camera fell on concrete. I can barely pay my rent and now winter is coming and the sun is leaving us with darkness…
So I’m going for a walk. And with all that isolation, I’m finding places where I can breathe. This nature. The ocean. Everything is alive and lush and moving. I’m watching the swell and how the colors of the ocean change. So I’m doing what I always do, I’m taking photos…
And then this girl texted me. Linley Hurrell. She likes that I’m taking pictures on film and she surfs. And she said that she would love to go out and shoot. But I haven't done surf photography before. What if I suck? Or if she thinks I’m just another random European girl traveling through Australia for a short time? But I wanna do it…
Turns out she is not only a rad surfer, she teaches the next generation of surfers about the local environment and ocean. She loves this coast as much as I do. She feels as alive and carefree in the nature as I do. But she had to fight for it. After having a serious accident she had to re-learn to walk and talk again and now she is a semi pro surfer?!
The ocean has given her a lot and now she gives back by fighting for the bight with her #bigoildontsurf campaign…
Now, a few days later I’m looking at the photos.
These colors… That light that shines so bright… And then there is Linley. Enjoying every move she makes, not thinking about anything…
I think I’m ok.
I think this is a good life.
THIS IS my life in Jan Juc.
This is my Jan Juc Diary.
