Why I Shoot by Fanny Klumper
I shoot because it challenges me creatively.
I shoot because it challenges me physically.
I shoot because it gets fucking scary at times.
I shoot because I love reading waves.
I shoot because there is no feeling like sinking into a wave, becoming invisible and getting dangerously close to the surfer.
I shoot because it takes me to places where I wouldn’t surf.
I shoot because I love how waves curl up under water.
I shoot because I like that perspective from behind the wave.
I shoot because the under-water-sounds calm me down.
I love it even more when I make it back to the line up after being stuck ‘inside’.
When the reef is not your enemy but your friend, because holding on to it is the only thing keeping you from going over the falls.
When unknown surfers offer me their board to take a breather. When local surfers welcome me to their home break.
And when I get frustrated by yet another reef cut, I question myself why the fuck I even do what I do?
Yet the next morning I get up at 5am again; time to gear up.
Thanks for keeping me going, Momma Ocean <3
